Return of dine-and-dash

While many people endure the recession in their tightening pay packets and rising bills, the lunching classes are fighting back - over a bottle or two of reserve chardonnay.

It all started when restaurateurs, hit by rising food prices, began replacing eye fillet with rump steak. Or omitting the capsicum garnish from the gazpacho.

With less bangers-and-mash for their buck, faint-hearted diners are staying home. But not so the determined gastronome; for that person, the dine-and-dash is back.

Last month in Edmonton, Canada, a 28-year-old finished his meal in a West End restaurant then attempted to escape in a stolen car. His plan was foiled when he crashed the car and was arrested.

In Melbourne, five young diners enjoyed oysters, trout and fine wines, before slipping out for cigarettes and not returning. The restaurant proprietor tracked them down via Facebook and recovered the A$520 ($620) bill - and a healthy tip.

Then, last Sunday, Soljans Estate Winery in Kumeu (Auckland) was left with a $246 bill when a group of five well-dressed diners finished their mushroom a la Greque and pan-fried scallops wrapped in streaky bacon, then left without paying.

Unfortunately for them, they were captured on high-resolution security cameras. We can only wish them their just desserts.